Continuing the attempt to see a bit more Scandinavia, the next trip was Copenhagen. This year is SAS's 75th Anniversary, so there were decent deals to be had to all places Nordic. I like SAS; they have their own beer.
Copenhagen airport is one of those modern hubs that feel like upmarket shopping malls, where you wonder if you've bypassed baggage reclaim and wandered into the food court of House of Fraser.
We caught a cab into town, dropped our bags off at the hotel, and popped over the road to the Restaurant Puk - one of the older buildings in the city. Our host informed us it was a favourite place for various Kings to take their mistresses back in the day. They accidentally added a course of herring to our meal, and then forced aquavit down our throats to demonstrate the authentic method of fish consumption. I'm unsold on the merits of the various caraway-cased spirits, but who am I.
The following day, not having an agenda as such, we ambled about town in the direction of Christiana Freestate - an anarchist commune founded by hippy squatters in the 70s, when they occupied an old army barracks. It contains the "Green Light District", a market square where heroic quantities of cannabis are openly sold. The drug dealers look exactly like drug dealers, mind. This place might be a leftie love-in, but I wouldn't lurk for too long around these entrepreneurs in tracksuits. Otherwise it's the predictable counter-culture tropes of graffiti, skate parks and overpriced wooly hats (sold with the obligatory nameste).
I'm not particularly au fait with design, graphic or otherwise, but Chan wanted to go the the design museum so in we went. I then spent 30 minutes nodding sagely at chairs. I did recognise the chemist logo from the high street, which was a highlight. They also do that depressing thing that all museums of things contemporary are doing : exhibiting video games consoles and electronic devices from my youth as though they are recently excavated artefacts while bewildered adolescents look on in disbelief.
The Street Food market nearby is thankfully indoors. We made best use of our time in Denmark by buying Argentine and Korean snacks, as one does.
The contemporary art museum is a relatively small affair, with the obligatory selection of twisted wire, videos of some tool pulling faces and inexplicable nudity. What it does have is a large exhibition space filled with Gibson guitars hooked up to amplifiers and a couple of hundred zebra finches. The birds fly about, occasionally strumming, fretting and belting out a fucking tasty riff. This is genuinely entertaining and worth a visit.
Our poncy meal on this trip was at the Michelin-starred Kokkeriet restaurant. Check us out. We can't recall if we had the nine or twelve course tasting menu option but it was ridiculously good. As an example: one course involved them steaming and deconstructing a sprout, leaf-by-leaf, and then painstakingly reassembling it around a single scallop. Just for me to throw it into my maw.
One more thing we saw while out and about was this curiosity:
A floating hot tub, heated with the on-board fuel burner. I imagine the trick is disembarking and re-robing without losing an extremity.